A well-scoped ebike build request starts with enough detail for us to give you an accurate quote and the right component match. That doesn't mean you need to be a mechanical engineer — most first-timers are surprised by how little they need to know. This guide walks you through every field in our build request form and explains why each one matters.
Bike Type
This is the frame style you're working with or want to build around. Mountain, commuter, cargo, cruiser, folding — each has different component clearance, mounting options, and geometry considerations. If you already have a frame, note the wheel size (26", 27.5", 29", 700c) and whether it's a hardtail or full-suspension. If you're starting from scratch, describe your target bike style and we'll suggest compatible options.
Primary Use Case
This is the single most important spec for component selection. A cargo bike hauling 150lb of kids and groceries needs a fundamentally different build than a trail bike doing singletrack laps. Use case determines motor power, battery voltage, and component strength. We've broken it into broad categories — commute, off-road, cargo, performance — and each one gates different component recommendations.
Target Range
Range is a function of battery capacity (watt-hours), not voltage alone. Think about your typical ride: how far do you go in a session, and do you have access to charging mid-ride? A 20-mile daily commuter with home charging can spec a smaller, cheaper pack. A full-day off-road rider without access to charging needs a larger capacity setup. Be honest about your real usage — overestimating leads to buying more battery than you need.
Target Speed
Most jurisdictions cap e-bike assist at 20mph (Class 1/2) or 28mph (Class 3). If you want Class 3 speeds or pedal-assist up to 28mph+, say so. If you're on bike paths with a 20mph limit and prefer to stay legal and conserve battery, that's also useful context. Target speed affects motor power, controller amperage, and battery voltage — it's a straightforward spec that narrows down component options quickly.
Throttle vs Pedal Assist (PAS)
Throttle gives you on-demand power with no pedaling required — useful for starts, hill climbs, and cargo loads. PAS (pedal assist) multiplies your pedaling input with varying levels of assistance. Some riders want both; others prefer PAS-only to preserve exercise value. If you're unsure, describe your fitness level and how much you want to pedal — we'll recommend the right sensor type and controller setup.
Budget
Build request budgets can be wide. A $600 commuter build using refurbished parts looks very different from a $3,000 performance trail setup. If you have a hard ceiling, say so — we can either suggest a phased approach (start with the core components, upgrade later) or explain what's possible at your price point. Vague budgets ("as cheap as possible") are harder to work with than ranges.
Frame and Existing Components
If you're converting an existing bike, note any components you want to keep (wheels, brakes, drivetrain). A 27.5" wheelset with a 2.4" tire clearance will suit different motors than a 700c commuter frame with narrow tire clearance. If the frame has thru-axles, disc brake mounts, or internal cable routing, mention those too — they affect which motors and displays are compatible.
What You Don't Need to Know
You don't need to know specific motor models, controller specs, or battery chemistries. That's our job. What we need is an honest picture of what you're building, how you ride, and what you want it to do. With that context, we can spec a build that fits — not just one that sounds impressive on paper.
Ready to submit? Fill out the build request form — we respond to every inquiry with a specific component recommendation and a detailed quote.